Noravank Monastery in Armenia, an ancient destination that is full of surprises. Photo: Lumen
Noravank Monastery in Armenia, an ancient destination that is full of surprises. Photo: Lumen
Noravank Monastery in Armenia, an ancient destination that is full of surprises. Photo: Lumen
Noravank Monastery in Armenia, an ancient destination that is full of surprises. Photo: Lumen

History, culture and kayaking combine in unassuming Armenia


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Towering above limestone cliffs, 13th-century monasteries and teeming flora and fauna, are rugged mountain peaks capped with snow. I breathe in the crisp air and enjoy the brilliant sunshine in a scene that could be straight from the Alps. But I’m not in France, Switzerland, Italy or Austria. I’m sitting at a long wooden table in the shadow of Mount Ararat. The table is piled high with sharing platters of locally produced cheese and raw vegetables, I sit back, relax and take it all in, just as the Armenians do.

Only a three-hour flight from the UAE, Armenia is a breath of fresh air, especially when temperatures are high in the Gulf. With visa-free entry for Emiratis and 20 other nationalities – and e-visas available for many other travellers – the destination is a top contender for those seeking an under-the-radar holiday location.

Locals say spring and autumn are the best times to visit and make the most of what they call velvet season. From April to June and again in September and October, temperatures are ideal for outdoor pursuits and there is plenty to do, from hiking and kayaking to ziplines and horse-riding as well as roaming the streets on cultural, gastronomical and religious tours.

Though summer is a tad hot for wandering the city comfortably, it is the best time to navigate water sports in the country’s lakes and reservoirs or tackle some of its stunning mountain hiking routes. This is a country with four distinct seasons. Winter brings snow, which in turn lures skiers and winter sports fans. Armenia is a year-round destination.

Yerevan: Armenia's capital of contrasts

The Yerevan Cascade Complex consists of five hillside terraces connected with more than 500 steps. Photo: Armenia Travel
The Yerevan Cascade Complex consists of five hillside terraces connected with more than 500 steps. Photo: Armenia Travel

Arriving on a direct early-morning flight from Abu Dhabi, followed by a 20-minute transfer to Yerevan, I’m excited to be in Armenia’s historic capital with a whole day of exploration in front of me.

As one of the oldest countries in the world, and the first to declare itself a Christian nation, Armenia has enough cultural and religious history to keep even the most avid history-buff engaged. To ensure I don’t miss a thing, I join local tour guide Arpi, whose love for her country shines through in everything she says and does.

We meet at the Tufenkian Kharpert restaurant, located inside the historic Tufenkian hotel where I’m staying. We sit among colourful carpets which cover the floors and walls, a quaint setting with a nod to tradition that’s a nice sample of what lies ahead.

Known as the Pink City, thanks to the distinctive rose-hued tufa stone used in its architecture, Yerevan, Arpi tells me over lunch, is steeped in history and charm. Excited to see some of it for ourselves, we head out to tree-lined avenues and dive right into the city’s cultural delights. The monumental Cascade Complex is first. Built in the 1970s, the imposing structure is a huge stairway that links Yerevan Centre to the Haghtanak Park and Monument neighbourhoods. We opt to take the indoor escalator rather than tackle the 500-plus steps.

This cultured ascent treats us to a feast of artwork, culminating in a panoramic view, dotted with a mix of modern and Soviet buildings against a mountain backdrop. In the gardens below, we spot three striking sculptures by renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero. To see art produced closer to home, made by Armenians and the country’s expansive diaspora, our next stop is Armenia Modern Art Museum. With a modest exterior, the museum is home to a small but carefully curated exhibition with eclectic pieces covering the walls and floor space in no discernible order.

I feel safe morning and night in a city centre that is very walkable. There is little need for taxis – just as well, because the ancient narrow streets make traffic and parking a time-consuming pursuit.

A view of the future in Yenokavan

From the capital, it is easy to venture out and explore Armenia on a day trip. So next morning, we head out of town early to avoid the traffic, passing a ubiquitous stream of white Ladas – the small, boxy Soviet-era cars that are still workhouse staples in the Caucasus – as we go.

Before long, the cityscape gives way to green pastures and rolling hills. Heading north out of the capital, we are on our way to Dilijan, but first we stop at Lake Sevan. Just an hour from the city, it is the largest body of water in the Caucasus region. On the north-west bank of the lake, set on a narrow rocky peninsula, is one of the most prominent examples of medieval Armenian architecture – Sevanavank Monastery, also known as the black monastery. Here, the wind is blowing with force and we pull our jackets tight as we ascend the steps leading to the chapel. Arpi tell us we are surrounded by five separate mountain ranges and points out Sevana, Vardenis and Geghama – the three that are visible on the horizon.

Arriving in Dilijan a little later, I am intrigued by the spa town’s beauty. With 22 streams of mineral water, it is one of the most verdant parts of the country and home to a multitude of wildlife including Caucasian deer, Armenian brown bears, vultures, hawks and eagles. At nearby Toon Armeni Little Village, we take part in a tolma-making masterclass, learning how to make and assemble the tasty stuffed vine leaves surrounded by a picturesque hillside.

Zip-lining through the trees in Yenokavan. Photo: Armenia Travel
Zip-lining through the trees in Yenokavan. Photo: Armenia Travel

Stuffed and ready to sleep, we drive along a serpentine road to Yenokavan, where our hotel for the night peeks through the trees each time we round a bend. Translating to future, Apaga Resort exemplifies the Armenian perspective of future as most of us would view the past. Stone-built, two-storey houses perched on the mountainside offer uninterrupted valley views combined with a back-to-basics ethos.

Rising early next morning, we head out to tackle the nearby zip line course at Yell Extreme Park, the hotel’s sister company. I’ve zipped across valleys around the world, but the views here are decidedly impressive. Children are also very welcome, and the accommodating instructors tell me that their youngest rider was seven months old (strapped to dad, of course).

Ancient lava and reservoir kayaking in Garni

The Symphony of Stones in Garni. Photo: Davit Simonyan / Unsplash
The Symphony of Stones in Garni. Photo: Davit Simonyan / Unsplash

The highlight of my trip to Armenia lies an hour east of Yerevan in Garni, where the country’s last remaining pagan temple sits alone and isolated on the edge of a cliff. Down below in the valley is a striking volcanic rock formation called the Symphony of Stones. Standing tall and casting a shadow over a winding country lane, the formation of unique hexagonal columns was created 40 million years ago as lava flowed down the gorge. Frozen in time, they now drop as near symmetrical rocks into the flowing waters below.

From here, we hop into a 4x4 for a scenic drive to Azat Reservoir, where kayaking on the calm waters is on the agenda. With empty shorelines asides from the occasional fisherman, and the silence only pierced by the moo of a distant cow, we paddle until our hands begin to ache, the perfect end to a day of exploration.

Coming full circle in Yeghegnadzor

Armenia may be landlocked but it's lakes and reservoirs offer watersports with striking mountain backdrops. Photo: Jake Belvin
Armenia may be landlocked but it's lakes and reservoirs offer watersports with striking mountain backdrops. Photo: Jake Belvin

East of Yerevan is Yeghegnadzor, and we head here to see Noravank Monastery. Built out of natural stone, the chapel is so tall that it is visible from the road on our approach. Red limestone cliffs rise even higher, and our guide tells us that this is also the place to spot mountain goats teetering on the dizzying narrow ledges. Sadly, we don't see any on our visit.

Lunch at nearby Old Bridge brings us almost full circle. Seated outside at a long, wooden table, we are served regional delicacies made from fresh ingredients as the owner’s son explains more about the property which is named after an ancient arch bridge that was an important trade crossing for the Great Silk Road in the early Middle Ages.

Under a flapping red, blue and yellow flag, we drink in the surrounding views as we tuck into the delicious cuisine, and I mentally start saying my goodbye to this beautiful country and its effortless charms.

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UAE%20ILT20
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Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS

Estijaba – 8001717 –  number to call to request coronavirus testing

Ministry of Health and Prevention – 80011111

Dubai Health Authority – 800342 – The number to book a free video or voice consultation with a doctor or connect to a local health centre

Emirates airline – 600555555

Etihad Airways – 600555666

Ambulance – 998

Knowledge and Human Development Authority – 8005432 ext. 4 for Covid-19 queries

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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UAE's role in anti-extremism recognised

General John Allen, President of the Brookings Institution research group, commended the role the UAE has played in the fight against terrorism and violent extremism.

He told a Globsec debate of the UAE’s "hugely outsized" role in the fight against Isis.

"It’s trite these days to say that any country punches above its weight, but in every possible way the Emirates did, both militarily, and very importantly, the UAE was extraordinarily helpful on getting to the issue of violent extremism," he said.

He also noted the impact that Hedayah, among others in the UAE, has played in addressing violent extremism.

Founders: Abdulmajeed Alsukhan, Turki Bin Zarah and Abdulmohsen Albabtain.

Based: Riyadh

Offices: UAE, Vietnam and Germany

Founded: September, 2020

Number of employees: 70

Sector: FinTech, online payment solutions

Funding to date: $116m in two funding rounds  

Investors: Checkout.com, Impact46, Vision Ventures, Wealth Well, Seedra, Khwarizmi, Hala Ventures, Nama Ventures and family offices

Name: Peter Dicce

Title: Assistant dean of students and director of athletics

Favourite sport: soccer

Favourite team: Bayern Munich

Favourite player: Franz Beckenbauer

Favourite activity in Abu Dhabi: scuba diving in the Northern Emirates 

 

Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.3-litre%204cyl%20turbo%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E299hp%20at%205%2C500rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E420Nm%20at%202%2C750rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E10-speed%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFuel%20consumption%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E12.4L%2F100km%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh157%2C395%20(XLS)%3B%20Dh199%2C395%20(Limited)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

Available: Now

Specs

Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric

Range: Up to 610km

Power: 905hp

Torque: 985Nm

Price: From Dh439,000

Available: Now

GIANT REVIEW

Starring: Amir El-Masry, Pierce Brosnan

Director: Athale

Rating: 4/5

Where to donate in the UAE

The Emirates Charity Portal

You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.

The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments

The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.

Al Noor Special Needs Centre

You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.

Beit Al Khair Society

Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.

Dar Al Ber Society

Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.

Dubai Cares

Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.

Emirates Airline Foundation

Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.

Emirates Red Crescent

On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.

Gulf for Good

Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.

Noor Dubai Foundation

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).

EMILY%20IN%20PARIS%3A%20SEASON%203
%3Cp%3ECreated%20by%3A%20Darren%20Star%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Lily%20Collins%2C%20Philippine%20Leroy-Beaulieu%2C%20Ashley%20Park%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%202.75%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The Perfect Couple

Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor

Creator: Jenna Lamia

Rating: 3/5

The specs: 2018 Volkswagen Teramont

Price, base / as tested Dh137,000 / Dh189,950

Engine 3.6-litre V6

Gearbox Eight-speed automatic

Power 280hp @ 6,200rpm

Torque 360Nm @ 2,750rpm

Fuel economy, combined 11.7L / 100km

Fighting with My Family

Director: Stephen Merchant 

Stars: Dwayne Johnson, Nick Frost, Lena Headey, Florence Pugh, Thomas Whilley, Tori Ellen Ross, Jack Lowden, Olivia Bernstone, Elroy Powell        

Four stars

As it stands in Pool A

1. Japan - Played 3, Won 3, Points 14

2. Ireland - Played 3, Won 2, Lost 1, Points 11

3. Scotland - Played 2, Won 1, Lost 1, Points 5

Remaining fixtures

Scotland v Russia – Wednesday, 11.15am

Ireland v Samoa – Saturday, 2.45pm

Japan v Scotland – Sunday, 2.45pm

A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

Yahya Al Ghassani's bio

Date of birth: April 18, 1998

Playing position: Winger

Clubs: 2015-2017 – Al Ahli Dubai; March-June 2018 – Paris FC; August – Al Wahda

The%20specs
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Who's who in Yemen conflict

Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government

Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council

Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south

Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory

FIGHT%20CARD
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A timeline of the Historical Dictionary of the Arabic Language
  • 2018: Formal work begins
  • November 2021: First 17 volumes launched 
  • November 2022: Additional 19 volumes released
  • October 2023: Another 31 volumes released
  • November 2024: All 127 volumes completed
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Profile Periscope Media

Founder: Smeetha Ghosh, one co-founder (anonymous)

Launch year: 2020

Employees: four – plans to add another 10 by July 2021

Financing stage: $250,000 bootstrap funding, approaching VC firms this year

Investors: Co-founders

How to apply for a drone permit
  • Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
  • Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
  • Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
  • Submit their request
What are the regulations?
  • Fly it within visual line of sight
  • Never over populated areas
  • Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
  • Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
  • Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
  • Should have a live feed of the drone flight
  • Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
Updated: September 23, 2024, 8:35 AM